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Thousands more photos here..


Jeep Project CJ-7

An ongoing Budgeted Rebuild/Build up of a Rock
Crawling Machine.

Installing 23,000 Volt Offroad Lights

Lockers, Limited Slips &
other Differentials Explained


Ramp Travel Index
RTI / Ramp Travel Index What it is and how to calculate it, with and without the ramp.

Offroaders Guide to Gearing up for Offroad
From Basic Equipment to Well Equipped.  An extensive list guide to help you prepare your vehicle for the offroad.






Project Toyota FJ Cruiser
Changing the Oil in a 2010,
and 2011 FJ Cruiser

For most backyard mechanics, changing your oil is a routine task.  I recall when I first purchased my 2010 FJ Cruiser, I was a bit puzzled by the location of the oil filter, which had changed since the last model year, not only in location, but in filter style.  2009 and prior FJ Cruisers used a canister type oil filter, which was located on the top side of the engine on the driver-side front corner.  For the 2010 model, the oil filter location was changed to the front center bottom of the engine behind the radiator and above the skid plate.  It was also changed to an element type filter.

To get the filter installation right, I referred to the owners manual, which had nothing about the filter.  I searched online and didn't find anything there either.  I've always done my own oil changes but had never changed one of these type of filters.  I purchased two oil filter elements from a local Toyota dealer, which included the filter element, 2 o-rings, the drain plug crush washer and a drain tube.  Instructions are also on the back of the box.  I then set ahead to change my oil and document the job so others slightly puzzled by this type of filter can see how it was done.


Toyota Oil Filter Element, o-rings, drain tube and crush washer.


2010 Toyota FJ Cruiser Oil Filter location

First step is to gain access to the oil filter.  So you need to remove the factory skid plate (if equipped).  If you have the additional aluminum factory skid, or other aftermarket added skid plates they may have to come off as well.  Four 12 mm bolts hold on the factory skid plate.

After unbolting the 4 12mm bolts, the skid plate swings down towards the front and unhooks from the frame just below the radiator cradle.


This is the housing that holds the oil filter element.  The base of the oil filter is the cap made of plastic.  You will need a oil filter wrench that fits over this in order to remove the cap.  Toyota refers to this as a "SST" or Special Service Tool.  Using an oil filter wrench will do, just make sure it is one that fits properly over the plastic cap.  Do not use one that applies pressure to one side in a pinching fashion.  You don't want to damage the cap.

From below you see a drain plug.

Locate the access panel for the oil pan drain plug.  This
Remove the drain plug and drain the oil.  The FJ holds a little over 6 quarts of oil so be sure your oil capture container has the capacity.

Use caution to also remove crush washer that is on the bolt.

Drain the oil.
Once the oil is drained, replace the crush washer on the drain bolt with a new one.  If you don't use a new crush washer, it isn't the end of the world but you may get a small leak.  Reinstall the drain bolt and tighten the drain.  I've read the the oil pan drain plug should be torqued to 28 ft/lbs (38 N/m), however most backyard mechanics like myself never use a torque wrench to tighten a drain plug, rather just tighten it to "snug".
Next turn your attention to the oil filter housing (or cap as Toyota calls it).  At the base of the aluminum housing is a bolt that takes a 3/8 socket wrench.  Remove this bolt.  Be aware that there is an o-ring below this bolt (oil plug).  IF you don't have a new one, you will need to keep this so don't loose it.  The oil remaining in the oil filter canister should be retained by a spring loaded stop but be ready to catch some oil. 
Bolt the removed using a socket wrench with an extension on it.
Next you will want to drain the oil within the oil filter cap.  For this Toyota recommends a "Drain Pipe", which presses the spring loaded. 
This is the Drain Pipe included in the Toyota oil filter box.  This Drain Pipe gets pressed up into the threaded hole with a little force and that releases the oil.  However if you don't have one of these special little tools ...
... a 1/4 socket extension with a small socket on it will work fine.  Just put it in a pair of vice-grips to hold it.
Then press it up into the hole pushing the spring loaded v-cone up a little to drain the oil.
Next, place your SST (standard issue oil filter wench) on the base of the cap and turn counterclockwise gently.   The resistance is a large o-ring.  Once you back it out, you'll see the oil filter element.  Slide off the filter element.
Use a clean rag to wipe the inside of the housing, specifically where the large o-ring on the cap will be.
Gently remove the large o-ring.

Apply a little clean engine oil around on the new o-ring and install the new large o-ring into the o-ring groove.  Make sure the o-ring is properly seated. into the o-ring groove. 

Below on the cap is the smaller o-ring.  gently remove that.  Clean the o-ring groove.  Apply a little clean engine oil around on the new o-ring and install the new large o-ring into the o-ring groove.  Make sure the o-ring is properly seated and secured into the o-ring groove.
Install the new o-ring by pressing it firmly down into the o-ring groove. 
To keep the o-ring in place hand tighten the drain plug back onto the cap.
Next flip the cap over and wipe out any contamination with a clean rag. 


Install the new element.  The element is on a spring loaded post so it will want to pop up and look like it's not fully seated.  That's ok.  The spring pushes it up into the housing onto another post.
Next, hand tighten the cap back onto the aluminum housing.
Once hand tightened, use your oil filter wrench to tighten it the rest of the way.  It looks like Toyota put an metal clip on the cap to indication its position.  My guess is it goes just past the tab on the aluminum housing since that's where it bottoms out.
Don't forget!  Next tighten that drain plug under the cap.  (Tighten to 9 lb-ft)

Fill your crankcase with your favorite brand of 0W-20 Synthetic motor oil.  The manual says that the 2010 FJ Cruiser take 6.4 quarts when the filter is replace.  I put 6 in, ran the engine, checked it and it appeared to be a full quart down (on level ground).  So I added a half quart, checked it again. Still a half down, so I ended up putting in a full 7 quarts of oil.

Then re-install your skid plate(s) and your done.   Run the engine for 3 minutes and ensure there is no leaks.





Project FJ Cruiser

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FJ Cruiser Product Reviews

About the Toyota FJ Cruiser

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Toyota FJ Cruiser Video Gallery

FJ Cruiser Engine and Drivetrain Specifications

Tuffy Security Console Install

Building an FJ 28"x42" Cargo Box with a
Collapsible 72"x42" Sleeping Platform

Body Mount CHOP in front wheelwells

Mud Flap Mod after the Body Mount Chop

Team Trails Black Door Handles Swap

Team Trails Black Grill Swap

FJ Cruisers Winter Offroading Pics

Toyota FJ Cruiser Photo Gallery

FJ Cruiser Press Release & Specifications

FJ Cruiser Reviews

FJ Cruiser Tires

FJ Cruiser Overview

FJ Cruiser Capacities

FJ Cruiser Dimensions

FJ Cruiser Suspension Lifts

ALL-PRO OFFROAD Suspension Lifts

Rough Country Suspension Lifts

Donahoe FJ Cruiser Suspension Lift

Revtek FJ Cruiser Suspension Lift


Offroad Tire Info
P-Metric Tire Sizes Conversion to Inches
Tire Terminology
Wheel Terminology
How to Pick the Right
Tires for your Truck
Truck Tire Info
Tires - What Hits What Fits
All Terrain  Mud Terrain
Tire Reviews & Info
Mud Terrain MT Tire Reviews
All Terrain AT Tire Reviews
Super Swamper Bogger
Super Swamper SSR
Super Swamper SX
Super Swamper Vortrac
Interco IROK TSL
Super Swamper LTB
Super Swamper TSL
Super Swamper TSL Radial
Super Swamper Narrow
Interco SS-M16 Swamper
Thornbird TSl Radial
Thornbird TSl Bias
Thornbird TSL
Parnelli Jone Dirt Grip
BFGoodrich Krawler
BFGoodrich MT T/A KM
BFGoodrich MT T/A KM2
BFGoodrich AT TA KO
BFGoodrich Mud King XT
Bridgestone Dueler MT
Cooper Discoverer ST
Cooper Discoverer STT
Cooper Discoverer ST/C
Federal Couragia MT
Firestone Destination AT
Firestone Destination MT
General Grabber MT
General Grabber AT2
Green Diamond Icelander
Ground Hawg Mud Tire
Hankook Dynapro MT
Hankook Dynamic MT RT01
Hercules Terra Trac MT
Hercules Trail Digger MT
Kelly-Springfield Safari DTR
Kelly-Springfield Safari MSR
Kumho Road Venture MT
Kumho Road Venture KL71
Kumho Road Venture AT
Dick Cepek Mud Country
Dick Cepek F-C II
Dick Cepek Fun Country II
Dick Cepek Fun Country Nylon
Dick Cepek Fun Country Kevlar
Mastercraft Courser MT
Mastercraft Courser HTR
Mastercraft Courser HTR Plus
Maxxis BigHorn Radial
Maxxis Creepy Crawler
Maxxis Trepador
Maxxis Buckshot Mudder
Maxxis MA-SW
Maxxis M-8080 Mudzilla
Maxxis MT-754 Buckshot
Maxxis MT-753 Bravo
Maxxis MA-751 Bravo
Maxxis MA-S2 Marauder II
Maxxis MA-S1 Marauder
Maxxis MT-762 BigHorn
Nitto Mud Grappler
Nitto Terra Grappler
Nitto Dura Grappler
Nitto Dune Grappler
Nokian Vatiiva MT
Pit Bull Rocker Extreme
Pit Bull Maddog
Pit Bull Growler
Goodyear Wrangler MT/R
Pro Comp Xterrain
Pro Comp All Terrain
Pro Comp Mud Terrain
Pro Comp Xtreme AT
Pro Comp Xtreme MT
Toyo Open Country AT
Toyo Open Country MT
TrXus Mud Terrain
TrXus STS All Terrain
Michelin LTX A/T
Michelin LTX AT2 Press
Michelin LTX AT2
Mickey Thompson MTZ
Mickey Thompson MTX
Mickey Thompson Baja Claw Radial
Mickey Thompson Baja Claw Bias
Mickey Thompson Baja Crusher
Mickey Thompson Baja ATZ Radial SLT
Competition Claw
Dunlop Mud Rover
Federal Couragia M/T
Nitto Dura Grappler
Yokohama Geolandar
Mud Tire Reviews


Off-Road Lights
by LightForce Product Review / Installation.
from Off-Road Lights