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Walker-Evans
shocks with or without adjustable reservoirs, and stainless
steel extended brake lines. Kit components are also sold
separately and they also have coil spacers available for $30
less per kit, utilizing your stock coil spring. ALL-PRO's
coils are 15% stiffer than stock. For the ultimate rear
set-up, add their heavy-duty lower control arm links for
superior strength and travel.
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ALL-PRO OFF ROAD FJ
Cruiser Front Suspension Installation Instructions
(Kit also applies for
2005 and later Toyota Tacoma) |
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Tools required for installation:
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1
– 19 mm Lug Wrench
2
– 19mm wrenches/socket
2
– 17mm wrenches/socket
1
- 12mm wrench/socket
1
- 10mm wrench/socket
1
- 8mm wrench/socket
1
– Ratchet
1
– Impact wrench (optional)
1
– Flat tip blade screw driver
1
– 10in. adjustable wrench
1
- 3/16 allen wrench
1
– Needle nose pliers
1
– Channel Lock Pliers
1
– 3/16” wrench
1
– Medium ball peen hammer
1
– Medium Mallet or Dead Blow Hammer |
1 – Floor
Jack
4 – Jack
Stands
1 – Pair
of coil spring compressors (optional)
1 – Pair
of Tie Down straps
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Stock
A-Arm and Strut Removal
(directions are the same for the driver and passenger side)
| 1. Jack the rear then the front of the
vehicle off the ground until the tires are ~ 2 inches off
the ground. Place jack stands under the rear axle and under
the frame rails on the front of the truck just behind the
front cab body mount arms. |
| 2. Be sure that the vehicle is resting
securely on the jack stands, then remove both front
tire/wheels from the truck. |
| 3. Using a pair of needle nose pliers remove the cotter
pin from the upper a-arm’s ball joint, save cotter pin for
re-installation. |
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| 4. Loosen ball joint nut until there is ~ a gap of
1/16” between the nut and the spindle arm. |
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| 5. With the small gap between the nut and the spindle
arm, strike the face of the spindle arm to release the taper
on the ball joint. The spring force in the strut will help
release the taper on the ball joint. Strike until the ball
joint taper releases and the spindle descends until it is
resting on the nut. |
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| 6. Remove the A.B.S. feedback wire and the brake line
from there body mounts so the lines are loose and will not
be stressed as you drop the lower control arm. |
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| 7. Place the floor jack below the lower control arm and
raise arm until the spring pressure is reduced and the
tapered ball joint is loose in the spindle arm. Remove the
nut from the ball joint, then lower the lower a-arm as the
ball joint slides out of the spindle arm. |
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| 8. Drop the lower arm enough to release the spring
tension in the strut and enough to remove the upper a-arm
ball joint from it’s taper. |
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| 9. Support the lower a-arm with the floor jack or by
strapping it to the shock tower so it does not droop out so
far that the A.B.S. and brake lines are stressed. |
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| 10. Remove the upper a-arm pivot bolt nut. |
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| 11. Remove the top plastic clips holding on the
body/frame mud skirts on both sides of the shock tower and
allow the skirts to fold down. |
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| 12. As you slide the upper a-arm pivot bolt forward you
will find that it interferes with the body’s inner/outer
fender well seam. |
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| 13. You must bend the lower rolled seam of
this joint out and away from the center of the truck. You
must only bend down the lip of this seam. When the lip of
this seam is bent down in the area the bolt will pass by,
slide the bolt forward. |
| 14. In order to slide this bolt all the way out, you may
need to drive it from the rear side of the truck using a
tapered punch and a ball peen hammer. It is not necessary
to drive it with hard strikes, just tap it forward. Make
sure that you have enough clearance with the body seam and
the bolt. Do not drive the bolt so far forward that it
contacts the radiator. |
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| 15. As the bolt clears the a-arm remove the upper a-arm. |
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| 16. Loosen the lower strut bolt/nut on the lower a-arm.
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| 17. Loosen all three upper strut bolt/nuts. Remove the
nuts from the bolts. |
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| 18. It is not necessary to remove the double
nutted upper shock mount. |
| 19. If you cannot droop the lower a-arms enough to
remove all spring compression in the strut, you may have to
compress the spring usings strut compressors (available for
rent at most auto parts stores. Use as directed by the
manufacturer. Using the floor jack to compress the spring
will make it easier to compress the strut springs. |
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| 20. By lifting or lowering the lower a-arm until there
is not shear load on the lower strut bolt, you will be able
to remove the bolt towards the rear of the vehicle. |
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21. Remove the strut from the lower mount point then the
upper mount point. |
| 22. If removal is difficult the sway bar can be
disconnected from the drag link on both sides of the truck
by removing the nut of the back side of the sway bar/lower
drag link joint., then rotate the sway bar out of the way.
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All-Pro
A-Arm and Coil-Over Installation
(directions are the same
for the driver and passenger side)
| 1. Locate the upper coil-over adaptor plates. |
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| 2. Wrap the coil-over anodized bodies with
tape to protect the anodization during install. |
| 3. Release all compression in the coil-over’s spring by
loosening the pre-load nut collar on the top of the spring.
You may need to loosen the locking allen cap screw so you
can rotate the collar. |
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| 4. Insert the lower coil-over bolt with the tapered
shock eyelet bushings on either side of the shock body.
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| 5. Place a washer and the locknut on to the lower shock
bolt and tighten.
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| 6. Place the bolt and tapered bushings as you did on
the lower mount. |
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| 7. Place the upper end of the coil-over into the upper
mount. Assemble as you assembled the lower. |
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| 8. Insert the upper adaptor mounts into the shock
towers. |
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| 9. Bolt each adaptor mount into the shock towers.
Insert them from below with the straight edge of the adaptor
parallel with the outside of the truck. There is a
passenger and driver side upper mount. Be sure each mount
is positioned to lean each coil-over towards the center and
rear of the truck so the springs will clear the sway bar.
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| 10. Temporarily position the coil-over
reservoir on the top of the shock tower and zip tie in
place. |
| 11. Install bolts, washers, and lock nuts and tighten
upper coil-over mount into place. |
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| 12. Lubricate all surfaces of the poly
bushings, the steel compression tubes and the stock pivot
bolt with a high quality waterproof grease. |
| 13. Press the poly bushings into the a-arm.
Then press the compression sleeves into the poly bushings.
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| 14. Install the All-Pro Upper a-arm by
sliding it below the A.B.S. and shock reservoir line. It is
important that these line run above the a-arm so they do not
get pinched between the a-arm and coil spring. Position the
a-arm with the grease fittings facing down and the gussets
facing up. |
| 15. Insert the stock pivot bolt through one
of the large end washers and then through the poly bushing,
then another large end washer . Place another large end
washer on the other side of the a-arm’s poly bushing then
run the pivot bolt through the washer, the poly bushing and
the last large end washer. Place the lock nut on the pivot
bolt and tighten. |
| 16. Find the misalignment bushing that has a tapered end
to it, lubricate the tapered area well with waterproof
grease, clean out the upper spindle tapered hole that the
ball joint was removed from. Insert the tapered mis-alignment
bushing tapered end first into the tapered hole. |
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| 17. Position the spindle and upper a-arm so
you can assemble the uniball/mis-alignment bushings/through
bolt. Assemble and tighten locknut on the bottom of the
bolt. |
| 18. Mount coil-over reservoir on top of
shock tower with provided clamps. Use the upper mount
bolts/nuts to secure. |
| 19. Zip tie the A.B.S. line to the rear arm
on the a-arm so that it will not be stressed at full
compression and droop of the a-arm. |
| 20. Re-attach the A.B.S. and brake lines to
the frame mount brackets. |
| 21. Re-attach sway bar if you detached it to
assist with coil-over removal install, tighten nuts. |
| 22. Double check that all
nuts/bolts/brackets/etc. have been tightened and that all
wires/brake lines/reservoir lines are free to move and have
been zip tied into place. |
| ALL_PRO OFFROAD
2" Rear FJ Cruiser Lift Kit Walker-Evans
shocks with or without adjustable reservoirs, and stainless
steel extended brake lines. Kit components are also sold
separately and they also have coil spacers available for $30
less per kit, utilizing your stock coil spring. ALL-PRO's
coils are 15% stiffer than stock. For the ultimate rear
set-up, add their heavy-duty lower control arm links for
superior strength and travel. |
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| ALL-PRO OFFROAD FJ Cruiser PRO
LINKS
If you are looking
for the best of the best,
All-Pro
has developed “Pro Links” using top quality Johnny Joints
ends made by Currie Enterprises. These high quality
rebuildable joints are custom made just for this
application and provide flexibility, strength and control,
and feature zerk fittings for easy lubrication. The links
are made from burly 1.75" X .281 wall DOM tubing. Unlike
the other links All-Pro offers, these are fully adjustable
to accommodate lifted applications and to allow for the
axle to be re-centered in the wheel well and for the
pinion angle to be adjusted.
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